Inspired by imagery from the early 1980s to the early 1990s, this collection aims to exhibit a playful interpretation of classic tailoring inspired by luxe leisurewear from the era, in a ready-to-wear womenswear range for spring/summer 2018.


My grandmother, Jean, was a keen follower of fashion. Her meticulously organised photo albums communicate her passion for clothing and style, providing a snapshot within archived time. Drawn to Jean’s depiction of England, through her travels around the country in 1982, I have taken aspects of her clothing and style to inform further research. I have also used her daily diary entries to develop ideas for shape and line – the application of which will be explored through both 2D and 3D development.


Drawing parallels between my grandmothers style and fashion trends of the same time, I have researched into luxe leisurewear, primarily by Italian and French designers, from the early 1980s through to the early 1990s, referencing silhouette and layering from Giorgio Armani menswear; drape and cut from Gianfranco Ferré; and volume and shape from Anne Marie Beretta.


Juxtaposing classic tailoring with fluidity and drape through fabrication, compositional construction and embellishment, the collection will combine functionality and silhouette taken from menswear design, with drape and cut considerate of the female form. With sustainability at the forefront of my fabric choices, I will explore tone, texture and drape qualities within ethical fabrics, focusing on natural fibres, including lightweight wool blends, bamboo silk, and organic cotton crossweaves. The colour palette aims to combine neutral tones of beige and brown with contrasting accents of colour.


With regards to cut, each garment will be developed from a classic block. However seam lines, embellishment and form will be initially determined by 2D design through the overlaying of compositional shape and line on to individual garments, taking inspiration from Victor Pasmore.


Decorative techniques and embellishment will come in varying forms, such as large scale embroidery, contrasting trims and compositional accessories. Each decorative aspect aims to playfully contrast with the understated tonal palette to add a point of difference in each outfit.

tamara henrikson

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